From boudin noir to lobster and black truffle gnocchi...
After several days of great Spanish food, we were pretty eager to taste what the French had to offer. While we promise not to make this blog all about food, we do have to describe two amazing meals we had in Avignon. One of the major stops in Provance, Avignon is an upscale medieval town on the Rhone River which was enclosed by a fortress wall to protect the Popes while the Vatican was temporarily located here in 1309.
We arrived at Avignon at night so of course the first thing on our mind was dinner – we strolled over to Le Moutardier du Pape which was a cute little restaurant across from Palais des Papes (Palace of the Popes) adorned with renaissance inspired frescos which gave it that uber-French vibe.
In an effort to keep the cost down and not stuff ourselves, we split 2 apps, an entrée and a dessert. We started with the Boudin Noir (blood sausage) – which I had a hankering for after seeing it in Barcelona in a few places – served with thin slice of toasted bread and topped with fried onions, it was much more tender and creamy than the one I had in the States… more spreadable and very delicious. Next came the best split pea soup I’ve ever had – very delicate flavor and silky texture, enhanced by a drizzle of olive oil and a dollop of crème fraiche. The cod that followed was perfectly cooked, covered with an olive tapenade which added a welcomed tinge of acidity.
The next day after walking all over Avignon, we rewarded ourselves with an impromptu lunch at Christian Etienne, a Michelin-starred restaurant, located in a beautiful old stone house adjoined to the Palais des Papes. The interior is gorgeous – the perfect combo of medieval charm with modern decor and an arty feel.
We had the pre-fix lunch menu which started with a comforting and refreshing Consommé of Mussels with julienne ginger and carrots. The Gnocchi with lobster topped with black truffle cream sauce and shavings was memorable but not spectacular -- we added this in from their special truffle menu so I think we were expecting a religious experience… although we did finally get it in the next dish – guinea hen stuffed with almonds in veal jus accompanied by leaks stuffed with bacon. The courses were expertly paired with several different wines by our very attentive sommelier. Last but not least was the caramel crème brulee topped with granny smith apple foam next to a scoop of refreshing granny smith apple sorbet covered with toasted/candied sesame seeds.
Avignon also has a great market in Les Halles which we hit up the next day to prep a little picnic of pulpo (octopus), brandade (salt cod spread), chic pea salad, olives, fresh baked bread with Roquefort cheese baked into it, and the most amazing little personal size round of chevre I’ve ever had (and I really love my goat cheese). We worked this off with a nice long hike over the Rhone River to the neighboring town of Villenueve where we strolled though the peaceful gardens of Saint Andre Abbey.
